How about no one open their mouth on here unless your are a working musician and in a record contract! Every label is different. Every contract is different. Every sales promotion is different. Every tour is different. Every recording session is different. Every band / artist is different. How many of you f8ck3rs actually perform, sell, tour and make a living completely off your music? Seems like a lot of people bitching about something they know nothing about. Talk about prices and how your sick of, or in favor of, all you want. But don't act like a f8cking know it all because you bought a Fender Squire on sale at GC and play Sweet Home Alabama with your friends in the garage on the weekends. I hate people who grabs little snips of data, outdated, and just go off on a f8cking rant demonizing people without a clue about what they are actually talking about.

Techstream is crippleware. It won't do HD. The highest it goes is 480i. It's useless. You can only run a max of 300 ft. of Cat5e. It's got low bandwidth. There are other solutions besides that junk.

That's a rip off. Rip all your DVD's to a RAID running LINUX. Use the ROKU media player running VideoLan to play multicast streams. Or use a Mac mini with Delicious LIbrary. Tie the URL's in the description in DL to play local files on the RAID in DVD player. Front Row might even work. Control it with VNC, Phillips web remote or Aurora's WAKI NX. Escient needs to recoup all the fees they have to pay the MPAA, RIAA and CDDB. That's why their price is high. Has nothing to do with their technology. They are actually behind on specs usually.

This has got to be fake. For it to twist that much would surely have cracked the motherboard. The hard drive might be ok, but the motherboard...I doubt it. I doubt it could flex that much. Anyone know how to fix a sticking clasp on the lid? Mine seems to not want to come down when I close the lid anymore and it makes the screen wobbly for transport. Also screws up sleep mode.

I need to get that poster for TBtWD! I got the movie, but my DVD box is in color. I like the poster pic in fascist colors ;)

http://www.dynamat.com/products_architectural_dynil.html

Top things you can do to get great sound in a room (both Theater and Studio):

- For guitar amps; use a THD Hotplate. It's a power attenuater. Crank your amp to get harmonics, stays at low volume. Great with Marshalls and Bogners.
- Make sure your speakers are placed right. Check the manufacturer for placement. Most should be away from the back of the wall at least a couple of feet so three is no resonance coupling. Front ported speakers can go a little closer. Use a piece of 703 wrapped in fabric and sit your speaker on it to decouple it from surfaces. Your best listening area is in a equilateral triangle setup. If you soffit mount them, you must treat the cavity.
- Heavy fabric drapes, velvet or equivalent, are good for cutting down window leakage. You can also make a heavy batted wool or horsehair drape behind that.
- If you have an option to do it, build room within a room. Anything that is as close to air tight as possible and decoupled from the outside surfaces will cut sound dramatically. Of course, not everyone can do this.
- Those old cubicle dividers, the ones that are modular and fabric covered, are pretty good at isolating things. They can be modified for better absorption. Pretty cheap at office supply reclaimers.
- DYNAMAT I have heard from numerous people that this stuff rocks. It cuts sound down like you wouldn't believe. It's also expensive. So...
- Doors leak a lot of sound. If you have the option, build your own and make sure it is dense as possible (sand filled) and is sealed on all sides so nothing leaks in.
- Put you A/V equipment in a cabinet with a low speed fan to cut out equipment noise.

I actually trained for a certification at the Owens Corning plant in Ohio. Their isolation and reverb chambers are friggin' awesome. Their statement on fiberglass health is that the stuff isn't absorbed by the body. It passes right through. Of course, there is no telling what rats and other things have been on the fiberglass in storage. I have crawled through the stuff in attics many times working in Home Automation and A/V installation. It itches, and on a hot day you can feel pretty choked up. Especially in Atlanta. But, no long term affects I've noticed. Can't be any worse than Slpenda.

Sound travels differently when hitting different objects. It reflects off flat surfaces. It gets absorbed by others. Sound is energy. It is the movement of air particles at certain frequencies. In order to stop certain frequencies, the material needs to stop the sound's energy by fully or partially absorbing it. Which also produces a certain amount of heat (small amount). This is too big of a subject to discuss here really, but, the biggest reason room acoustics suck is because of standing waves. This is when the sound coming out of you front speakers reflects off a nearby surfaces and gets combined back in with the original signal, but delayed. By the time this reflected signal gets back to your ear, it is out of phase. It effectively comb filters your original signal because if one frequency is in phase, and another of the same frequency(reflected) is out of phase, they cancel each other out. With this affect, things sound tinny, lot's of high end, too much low end, dead spots in the room, etc. Bass usually builds up in corners as well. That's why you need traps for those. Fiberglass by itself can't effectively absorb frequencies 500HZ and below. It's absorption works on a curve. The bass frequencies are really important too, because they are heard and felt more than the high frequencies.

You got the wrong kind of fiberglass. That pink stuff isn't going to do crap. You need Owens Corning 703 in 2 inch or two 2 inch panels glued together. The STC on the pink stuff is next to nothing. It's for thermal mostly. The acoustical is usually yellow and comes in 2x4x2" sheets. You can also use rock wool which is cheaper but more itchy. None of this will help your bass frequencies, especially in corners. For that you need to make traps. Get " The Master Handbook of Acoustics". It will tell you everything you need to know and more. It's also best to put the wall panels on a rail or track so you can move them around to find the best location for them. The real way to treat a room is by using software, highly tuned baffles and a good ear. Also, actually building the room right. But, you can google " how to treat room acoustics and standing waves" and find a good bunch of info.