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  • CeeJay
  • Member Since Apr 23rd, 2006
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@tsamb & luke : Don't use 1.1 spec HDMI cables for 1080p.
You should only buy 1.3 spec cables .. and never buy a longer cable than you need.

I suggest reading the cable comparison at Audioholics
http://www.audioholics.com/education/cables/long-hdmi-cable-bench-tests
to understand why "digital is digital" doesn't always apply to HDMI cables.
So this is the new wearable computing prototype..
Meh .. I think I'm gonna wait until they iron out the kinks.
They are not .. My old CRT goes to 120 hz and I tell tell the difference between even 100 hz and 120 hz .. it's hard though and I would imagine that with higher refresh rates it would get progressively harder with each step.

25/30hz is just fast enough to be perceived as motion without being annoying and stressful to watch.
60hz is so much better than 30 but still not great and 120hz seems very smooth.
A 240Hz display would be able to show both 30fps and 24fps content without skipping frames or changing the speed of playback.

30 x 8 = 240
24 x 10 = 240
25 fps content (PAL) would still skip frames though.

150hz would be a good refresh rate for tv playback
30 x 5 = 150
25 x 6 = 150
It would not suit film perfectly though.

The lowest refresh rate that allows perfect sync for all types of content is 600hz.
It's normally the backlight the burns out first and it's unaffected by the speed at which the liquid crystals shift.
It's like using your CD-ROM tray as a cupholder.
Panchromatic images is what Google Earth displays.
Who cares if the satellite can't capture infra-red or ultra-violet or other spectrums ?
It's enough that it captures the visible light spectrum.
Contrast ratios above 50:1 are academic ?
Please tell me you meant to write 500:1 , because 50:1 would be absurd.

Contrast ratios DO matter .. a higher contrast ration will make the image look clearer and sharper, that's how human vision works.

Contrast ratios of 5000:1 on a LCD screen however IS a scam , as it's not a real contrast ratio but rather a "dynamic" contrast ratio and while a dynamic contrast can help with some content, it's not the same thing and marketing it as such is deception.
I'd lose the green and give it a reflective mirror-like or white surface on the outside to help keep it cool in the hot sun.

The screen panel I would make black on the inside to reduce the amount of light reflected back to the users eyes .. less light overall means larger pupils , and a screen that seems brighter (because its surroundings are darker)

I'd make the keyboard white with big black letters because thats easier to see at nighttime, and I'd make the keys with special functions like ALT CTRL TAB ..etc a different color to signify that they are different from the rest. I would probably do the same to the F-keys in yet another color.

I'd also put two small xbox-like analog "joysticks" on each side of the keyboard so they can be used like on an xbox controller. One stick could be configured to be the mouse and the other could control scrolling (in all directions - not just up and down)

I might also give the keys different textures so a visually-impaired person would have an easier time finding the right key by touch - It could also help abled people type faster.

I'd give the keyboard section small feet on the back , like a regular keyboard has so you can raise the keyboard and make it more comfortable to write on - It would also let cool air flow beneath the OLPC , which would help cool it down.

I'd also lose the odd X o representations of people in the UI and go for something easier to understand , maybe something like these international signs :
http://english.unitecnology.ac.nz/resources/units/signs_symbols/international.html
I would also supplement these with text underneath their icons like all other OS' uses.

I wouldn't install Windows , but would ship the XO dualboot-ready and with VirtualBox already installed so you could easily add another OS either as a dualboot OS or as a virtual machine.
Let the hive mind of Engadget get that for you.
"I just moved into a new apartment and have been reading about all of the new power strips out there, especially the green ones. I was wondering if you had any suggestions about which "green "power strips are out there with decent joules ratings. And when I say green, I mean power strips that have the remotes or switches to turn off all electricity flowing to certain plugs and with at least 2 plugs that are always on. I was looking specifically at sub $50 because I will need two, but if that is not possible I could be convinced otherwise. Thanks!"
 

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