How-To: Run your own network wiring

Wherever you call home, it probably didn't come wired up for that most precious of home utilities: internet access. Sometimes wireless networking can only take you so far. Guerrilla network wiring might sound a little strong, but sometimes it ends up feeling like an episode of MacGyver, without the bombs. (Unless you count flaming laptops.) In today's How-To, we'll show you how to make your own cables and teach you a few tricks for getting them where you need 'em most around the house.

The supplies for making network cable are simple. We'll need:

• RJ-45 connectors
• RJ-45 crimping tool
• Category 5 cable (Our 1000 foot spool is seven years old)
• Wire strippers

These used to be pretty esoteric, but these days you can get crimpers and connectors at most computer stores. (The cable is usually cheaper at the hardware store.)

To crimp your own RJ-45, you'll first need understand the pinouts. A regular ethernet cable consists of four pairs of twisted wires. Each pair needs to be connected in the proper order for the network connection to work. For a normal cable, both ends are connected in the same order. Pinouts.ru is handy, but we've found that color graphics are easier to keep track of.

There are a couple of standards for ethernet wiring. They're generally the same, but they like to use different colors. Just make sure you use the same standard for each end of a cable and everything will be fine.

Cut the sheath off of the cable about an inch or so from the end. of the wires. Be careful not to nick the wires in the process.

You don't need to strip any of the wires. Just spread the wires apart, un-twist them down to the sheath and put them in the order they'll go in the the connector.

Straighten each of the wires and pull them together so they're flat and in the right order.

Cut the wires across the tips so that they are flat across the end. Use a smaller wire cutter so that each wire will stay in the right shape. (If they get distorted, they might not fit into the connector very well)

Slide them into the plug until the ends of the wires are touching the far end of the connector. You might want to compare the end to a pre-made cable to double check everything before crimping.

Insert the connector and wire into your crimping tool. Crimp the connector and use plenty of force to get solid connections. Repeat the process for the opposite end, and you've made your own network cable. (If you can get/borrow them, we recommend ratcheting crimpers over the cheapies.)

Now that you can make your own cables, it's far easier to run Cat 5 anywhere you want it.

One of our favorite tricks is to run cables through the A/C vents. Unfinished basements are fantastic for running wires. Here we've slipped it in between the actual duct and the hole it runs through.

Up top, we ran the wire through one of the slits in the air vent. When we move out, we'll just cut the end off the wire and remove it.

To get our TiVo networked, we took advantage of the pre-existing monster hole in the floor.

For easy removal and wiring containment, a few zip ties go a long way.

That's all there is to it. Don't be afraid to get out your drill, but there's usually an easier to run your network wiring. It's often noted that one should use plenum rated cable for runs through air conditioning ducts. We've found that basic Cat 5 is pretty tough stuff. (We had a piece strung between two houses for over a year and never had a problem with the network connection.) You can probably get away with non rated Cat-5 for short term use, but you probably know as well as we that one gets what one pays for -- so use the good stuff, and go nuts!

[dpocius @ Jun 4th 2008 1:10PM]

How about underground out to another building (my garage/shop)? What's the practical distance vs. speed tradeoff? I have to go 400 feet max, and I've been debating hardwired (in a separate plastic conduit, in the same trench as my power lines) vs. wireless (g or n, with a high-gain directional antenna).

[Greg @ Jan 13th 2009 9:25PM]

It's generally not recommended to have a run of more than 250 feet without a repeater, and you might have issues running the wire so close to the power wiring in a parallel run unless you're using shielded ethernet cable. Stretch out some cheap stuff and see if it works first before running it through the conduit. Wireless also has a limited range; N will get you further than G but you can always use range extenders/repeaters. Solution? Your internet connection has to come from somewhere, usually cable or telephone line (DSL). Run THAT to your other location, then install your modem and wiring in that building.

[customholle @ Aug 22nd 2006 9:56PM]

Just a note that gigabit needs cat 5e to achieve true 10/1000 speeds.

[Fubar @ Aug 22nd 2006 9:57PM]

You might want to double-check with your local code inspector about running cables through ductwork. Even if you don't live in a part of the country where ducts get hot, there are other issues: if the duct itself doesn't vibrate, the airflow through it can be turbulent. Either can kill the insulation in your wiring.

[Bobby Gomez @ Jun 1st 2007 11:48PM]

I don't think an A/C Unit is going to strip off the insulation unless you have a jet turbine as a blower. Yeay it's not code to run through duct work but if it is your house as long as it's not above 50 volts and the Worse thing that could happen is some one trips over your crappy self-install, than run all the cables you want. If you want it installed in conduit and nice and clean than just hire a electrician.

[Pacey @ Aug 22nd 2006 9:58PM]

This is one of the first things I did when I moved into our first home. I took it one step further and instead of coming up through air vents and the floor, I went and got some retrofit boxes and cut the hole in the wall. Now I have plates that have Cozx, Phone and Cat-5e in every room of the house. Oh, and wireless also, just in case I ever need it.

[rockhoyle @ Oct 19th 2009 9:19PM]

how do you hook up all the wires to router? if you have 5 rooms do you plug all of them into your router? my wireless router only has four spots for cables. I did the same thing rand ethernet to two bedrooms, computer room and living room, but in the living room I tried running 3 ethernet wall jacks off of one cable.I ran a main wire from router and then cut it and tried splicing 3 cables off of it. So I have one in all corners depending on where my wife wants the tv for that week!!!...lol I am not having any luck though trying to splice all the cables together, but if i unplug the other two and just connect 1 wire to it, it works fine.. i dont understand.. I not using all of them at same time only one at a time depending on where the t.v. is! please help....

[Chris @ Aug 22nd 2006 9:59PM]

Thought this article might have something interesting in it...until I saw crimp on RJ45 connectors, then I knew it would be bad advice.

Crimping your own RJ45's is bad advice. Let alone that the cable used was solid core, BAD BAD BAD for a direct computer or device connection. The bending and moving of the cables will cause problems. Did you ensure that the connectors being used were for solid core wire and not stranded? The connectors vary unless you get universal connectors.

Save yourself the trouble and use factory crimped and sealed stranded patch cables for device to device connections.

The only place you should be using solid core wire is from a jack connection in your wall back to a patch panel which has your RJ45 connections for your hub/switch.

[Jac @ Mar 26th 2008 1:05PM]

Chris... you are a retard... I have run well over 100 miles (no exaggeration- I was a network administrator for the Marine Corps) of cat5 that was tipped by us with not a single problem if the tip is correctly made/crimped... the tip will wear out after about 4-8 months of 24 hour a day use, but that's about it.

[riskem @ Dec 6th 2008 4:44AM]

How dare you suggest buying premade cables on a "Do-it-yourself" help page. Just think how that would contribute to the child/slave labor problem... those poor kids untwisting wires, slipping jackets on, and crimping with tiny hands for so many hours a day... just to be packaged and sold to U.S. market as premade cable for a pretty profit.

Chris, you sure have the right approach to constructive crticism. Maybe the person who did this (to be helpful), used what was "freely" available. And maybe they've never had problems using the same materials. There are codes and standards for data center environments where downtime is mission critical, but if you aren't being audited for SAS70 certification, i'm sure the average home network will survive just fine.

I've only seen solid core cable fail a connection to a device from what you described twice in a production environment.
Maybe... just maybe... you will see a connection failure by unplugging the cable from the device several times a day everyday to play jumprope with the cable. By then... it wouldn't be too much hassle to just make another one.

[JerkyChew @ Aug 22nd 2006 10:03PM]

You guys must be psychic... I'm drilling holes in my wall and running CAT5e as we speak to hook up my XBMC and Xbox 360...

[Brett @ Aug 22nd 2006 10:08PM]

If you are looking to do wiring in the walls there are long flexible shafted drill bits that are available at your local home store. They run about $40USD and can get you through the crawl space or basement walls nicely and then you can fish up the wall and do a great installation with a real wall jack - again back to the home store for a finished wall recepticle (code requirements) and a face plate (About $10 total). Also, if you are in a two story and you want to run up to the second floor look for two closets on top of each other and you can drill away as the wires will be hidden in the closet - just paint them to match the walls and they magically disappear. Final trick, if you build a two-story house have a chase put in so you can run the cables from the basement or the crawl space when you need to. They cost less than $100 for the builder to put in, or check if you can do it yourself - $20 in PVC tubing and a straight wall and you are all set!

Enjoy!

[Chris @ Aug 22nd 2006 10:16PM]

I found a very good way to run cables to our second story bedrooms for me and my sister was to go through the cold air return in my sisters room and and striaght down to the drop/tile ceiling in the basement. To get to my room we went through the top of the cold air return into the attic and then across and down into my closet, where the wire is mostly conceiled except where it goes around the baseboard. My dad's office uses the cable-through-the-duct-hole trick and I havent had trouble, but I'm going around the actual duct not through it. My friend has cables going through the actual duct and so far has had no problems, with standard cat-5.

I found the trick with my cheapo crimper was to crimp till I thought it was done, then crimp more. Does the trick for me, and I've never had cable problems (That weren't caused by my stupidity.)

[ZipperSeven @ Aug 22nd 2006 10:16PM]

Running thru the grates isnt a bad idea for a home install where folks arent concerned with bandwidth (I would be worried about RF...but all of my cabling is shielded,) but I think the biggest fear I'd have is abrasion...maybe put some heatshrink tubing over where the cable passes thru the grate? A friend of mine cut a hole in a milk jug cap and uses that as a grommit where he ran cabling (speaker wire actually) thru the floor.

Also...I like to use the velcro strips instead of zip ties because you can group and reuse the strips instead of having to cut and place a new one everytime you move a set of cables.

[m-p{3} @ Aug 22nd 2006 10:17PM]

I personally do it often to save money on network cable. I've got myself a cable tester, so I'm sure my cable works before installing them permanently.

Also, it's easier to pass a wire without the connector through a small hole ;)

[Abhi Sur @ Nov 10th 2007 7:51PM]

Can you please tell what cable tester you are using. I am moving into a home where the previous owner had installed CAT5 cable in the main floor and the basement. I just want to find out that the end points work. Can you please tell me whether your cable tester would work in this case.

[Matt @ Aug 22nd 2006 10:19PM]

I have crimped thousands of RJ-45's over the years, and have yet to have one fail. I have also been using solid core wire the whole time, again no issues.

Stranded wire never seems to work that well for terminating in any way, be it crimp or punch down.

[ndtinker @ Aug 22nd 2006 10:20PM]

@ Chris: I've used solid core wire and any random rj-45 end for years upon years and always made my own cable. for one you get the exact length and don't waste wire and secondly you get the satisfaction of doing it yourself, not to mention saving money. I've heard the stranded vs. solid wire debate over and over and all the stranded wire ive seen is cheap crap. as long as the wire and ends are good and its crimped well it will work fine, theres nothing to worry about or any sense to be going off saying how bad the advice here is. it's meant to help people out not scare them away or make them think you have to be some network guru to be able to crimp a stupid wire. jeez, have fun doing this stuff. I know I do. (p.s. my wires always work and the 4+ year old stuff i did back when i was a noob still works a treat)

[tiuk @ Aug 22nd 2006 10:27PM]

Plenum isn't used in vents and suspended ceilings because it's tougher, it's because when it melts it doesn't release toxic fumes like PVC cable does. If there's a fire you don't want your ventilation system to poison your whole family.

It's also generally recommended not to use zip ties with network cables, but you can take your chances. As long as you don't cinch them down too tight it'd probably be fine. Velco is best, though. Definitely don't use staples, no matter what shape they are.

[hobgoblin @ Aug 22nd 2006 10:39PM]

ugh, how i hate putting on those rj-45 ends.
whoever came up with that plug should be stopped from having children in the most painfull way possible.

[Mike D @ Aug 22nd 2006 10:55PM]

Nice idea but if you are that pathetic why not just use wireless? Invest a little more time and effort and buy some wallplates and jacks. Home Depot has a pretty respectable selections of this kind of stuff. I went a little overboard and installed a 24 port patch panel in my basement and a 24 port linksys switch in a 8" deep wall mount bracket. (I'm only using about 12 ports, room to grow) If you figure the cost of cable, hardware, wallplates, jacks, etc. I think it ran me about $500 total but it looks good and it's very versatile.

[ElectroGeek @ Aug 22nd 2006 10:57PM]

Nice article. However, do you really think that a home needs to be hard wired these days when the performance and range of some wireless systems rival that of conventional wired networks? The Netgear RangeMax is a prime example. I use the RangeMax wireless router and matching card in my laptop at home with exceptional results. I can honestly say that there are zero deadspots. Oh and by the way if you're thinking, yeah that's great for ranch houses let me assure you that's not the case. My home is 6,500 sq ft. with a basement and 2 levels above. I also keep the router in the basment. This stuff just works! Through away those wires man!

[physicsguy @ Sep 27th 2006 8:35PM]

A wireless network with that kind of range through 2 levels, clearly a number of walls at oblique angles, and covering 6500 sqft has got to be transitting a fair amount of power. You might consider NOT being anywhere near the Access Point. (Not very healthy for you).

[jeffeb3 @ Aug 29th 2007 7:37PM]

Wireless is fine when you check out the internet, or you don't have any neighbors using it. Where I live, I have 10+ wireless networks available at anywhere in my home. As for the wall plates, that's awesome, except that I'm renting.

And "Physics guy" there is a limited number of power output available for home wireless networks, and it really isn't that much. For a so called "Physics guy" you don't seem very smart. Complaining about 2.4GHz wireless at less than 20 watts is crazy.

[DarkFader @ Aug 22nd 2006 11:08PM]

There's always some problem. Coax plugs came loose too easily. RJ plugs have too fragile locking tabs.

I crimped an RJ45 connector to some wires that were actually too thin. A piece of thick paper and removing the contacts first for inspection did help a bit.
After that, I superglued it since the cable itself wasn't too thick either.

[Adam J @ Aug 22nd 2006 11:14PM]

Wireless is nice and well but when you want to move a few gigs of files such as movies or ISO's you will be VERY glad you have a hardwired gigabit connection. I am also in the process of wiring my home, in fact I just finished putting a new jack in one of my wall boxes a few minutes ago for a new laser printer.

[SouthPaw @ Aug 22nd 2006 11:23PM]

Better to not crimp connectors. Better to just punch jacks. They have a much more positive connection for the home installer and are reusable. http://www.mavromatic.com/archives/000458

[Keith @ Aug 22nd 2006 11:24PM]

UGH! Do it right!

1) The wiring you are using in the ducts is almost certianly ILLEGAL. You have to use plenum rated cable (about 2x the cost) in any air space used for ventilation.

2) Do it right the first time - it looks UGLY and UGLY is usualy unreliable. Do it right and put it in the wall. Get yourself a long flexible drill bit, a good fish set, a drywall saw, a punch down tool, a patch panel and the modular jacks and some cable. I've done three houses now and it looks great and works flawlessly.

3) I can echo the users above about standed vs. non-stranded. A mismatch will drive you insane with the likely failures.

My current house was by far the easiest, we have forced hot air which means there are ducts in the walls. The round ducts in square holes make running wire easy even to the third floor. Note, we ran outside the ducks, not inside, at the same time we ran RG-6 coax to the same locations. Wired still blows wireless out of the water for speed, especialy in a crowded city environment.

[Brian @ Aug 22nd 2006 11:48PM]

Hmm.
Nothing personal, but that's sloppy work. Unless you're using plenum-rated cabling, you've got a fairly obvious safety violation going on. Why not pay a few extra bucks and do safely, if not correctly?

Seriously, make this clean and professional the _first_ time around. Use Leviton QuickPort or some similar retrofit wallplate. They clip to the wallboard in about 30 seconds, and you can get blank plates that allow you to run network, audio and coax all on the same plate. Then use a Flexi-bit or similar long-shaft drillbit to knock a hole in the floor. Or save yourself that $30 and go over the ceiling. Either way, a fish tape with a cage is cheap, and you can pull all your wiring through the wall.

Contrary to Chris' advice, building your own cables is not problematic. "Motion" and "bending" are not issues if your plates are hardwired. Once that cable is clipped in place, it ain't moving (I used GB cable staples from the local home center...$5 gets you a great big tub of 'em). If you feel the need to use prebuilt cables, use them to patch the wall to the machines. And using an in-wall patch bay is also handy, and not terribly expensive.

Clean, safe and permanent. And no wires hanging out of your HVAC vents (and possibly poisoning your family). Good grief.

[Adam J @ Aug 22nd 2006 11:48PM]

@Keith

I very much echo your comments as that is pretty much exactly how I have been wiring my house.

I have also been able to do a few extra things such as run component video from my computer in the basement to our living room HDTV which has made watching videos from the internet or slideshows of our pictures very nice.

I also looked into running through air vents and found it illegal unless it is run in a metal conduit and the cable is plenum which means if it does melt in a fire the fumes won't kill you as they go through the ventilation.

The only place I have conceded defeat was the basement wall by my computer I had to run surface conduit as getting the wire to it was almost impossible via drywall without cutting multiple holes to get past obstacles.

As a note from someone still working on their wiring I cannot express myself more when saying use a patch panel where all the wires end up and get a cheap connectivity tester it will save your sanity.

[Sweathog @ Aug 22nd 2006 11:50PM]

AS Fubar, Chris and others point out, this article has lots of bad advice. It's better to use a punch down block to terminate CAT5 cable and buy pre-assemble and tested Cat5 patch cord to go from your punch down block to your router or switch. There are fewer tools are involved and there's less chance for error. And CAT5 patch cords are so cheap. You can buy better quality patch chords with boots and plenum rated cable for Christ sakes cheaper than doing it yourself. Likewise, running wire through ducts is a building code is really nutty. I'm a big fan of the Leviton structured wiring boxes sold at Home Depot. Buy one of those, a good punch down tool, and a TrendNet punch down block and your installation will likely be just as inexpensive but look way more professional than the amaturish job depicted in the article.

[A @ Aug 23rd 2006 12:16AM]

Wow, you guys want to attack the How-To. If it required expensive Plenium cable, there wouldn't be a how-to. Its a good start, then do the research and spend the extra money where needed. Indeed, i agree with the Plenium cable and installing it in the walls, but sometimes thats just not possible. Sure, get a drill bit and drill through the firestop... thats just about as bad as going through the vent. What good is a firestop with a 1" hole in it? The house i worked on was not going to be sold anytime soon, so we came down in closets and worked from there. Thankfully, the builder had the sense to install 2" aluminum pipe from the basement, through two stories and into the attic. It was originally used for a TV antenna (at the time, rural house, no cable).

The tools and materials are cheap, hence the quick-fix for in-house networking. Those who commented against it, you know better. But for those who would've never though of it, this article gets the gears going. It is insane to go to BestBuy and pay friggin 14 bucks for a 3ft patch cable (and you know thats what most noobs to networking do). Make your own with what's left.

My response to the go wireless... in my case wireless isn't fast enough. In addition, there's no TRUE way to ensure you are the only one on your network unless its all wires. MAC filtering doesn't stop packet scanning. Get enough packets, encryption can be hacked.

[Whosawhatsis @ Aug 23rd 2006 12:54AM]

I agree that if you crimp them tightly, crimp them some more, and don't screw up the order, your cables will come out fine. The solid vs. stranded thing isn't a big deal, but you should spend a little more time hiding your wiring and making it presentable. Either that or make a theme out of it by using a lot more wire, but those wires hanging out of vents or sticking up through a hole in the floor are pretty unsightly.

As a side note, I don't mean to be a jerk, but can the proofreaders please give this one another go? The word-stealing gremlins appear to have had a field day, and its pretty painful to read.

[unixkernelpanic @ Aug 23rd 2006 1:24AM]

The cable jacket MUST be flush inside the connector before crimping. This ensures the strain relief plastic plug/wedge of the connector is anchored against the cable jacket and not the bare wires as INCORRECTLY shown in this article. Also, the wires must be butted all the way to the very end of the individual wire channels (holes), Reference:

http://www.bluemax.net/techtips/networking/Wiring_Tips/Wiring100TX/HowtoCrimpRj45.htm

Quoting from that link: There is nothing any more frustrating than a finicky, flaky intermittent wiring connection. If properly done using quality components and tools, the connector will stay firmly in place even if pulled apart with up to 25 pounds of force. A firm pull with an average person's bare hands should not separate the cable and connector. Far better to find out that the wiring assembly won't hold up before it's put into service than to spend hours tracing a poor connection once it's in place.

Also take a look at the EZ-connector which has passthrough holes in the front of the connector for making cables faster:

http://www.telephoneparts.com/product/EZRJ45/EZ-RJ45+Crimping+System

If using stranded cable, the connector must be for stranded. If using solid, the connector must be for solid cable. Stranded is more flexible, cheaper quality, and more of a pain to crimp. I've never seen stranded used for punch down (not successfully anyway), and all production datacenters that I have worked use solid cable and connectors everywhere except for when the short patch to NIC runs where they purchase expendable patch cables from some vendor.

Other than the less-than 10ft patch panel to NIC runs, buying varying length pre-made cables is an utter waste of storage space, money, and aggravation when you make a run and find your length estimate was 2ft short of what was needed for the run. And before somebody chimes in saying to pre-measure the run, understand that it is still faster and less effort to estimate, and then know exactly how close you estimated to adjust to fit on a second pass if necessary. Why go through any of that aggravation when you have a spool which you can pull and cut perfectly to length as someone above mentioned?

[Mark @ Aug 23rd 2006 1:50AM]

@Chris, Home crimped cable with solid core might be bad but it works, and works for many years, and doesnt degrade the service. Also, its most likely that these cables are going to desktops or to a single place that a laptop gets plugged in. When the wires arent moving a lot then its not going to stress it to the breaking point. No matter where you buy your cable movement is eventually going to wear it down and cause broken strands or broken wires somewhere, but homemade cable is good enough, not to mention it costs a couple cents compared to $15. Also you can buy snagless boots to give it the same store bought look.

[Australian Tim @ Aug 23rd 2006 2:13AM]

For a rented place i'd have no problems doing everything you've suggested! apart from drilling holes! When the house I am living in now was being built I installed the cables in the walls before the gyprock went on, that was possibly the only easier way to install Cat5.

As for those of you who complain about people crimping their own RJ45's, and using solid core, I've been crimping my own for years, and been using solid core for just as long, and I have never had a cable fail! I have honestly had more professionally crimped cables fail then my own ones. It still all comes down to how you treat the cable. And if u treat it well anything will do! And to be honest, who really gives about health and safety regulations in your own house??

[Pravus @ Aug 23rd 2006 2:47AM]

Just a quick comment about the people who were bashing the how-to.

Anal retentive elitists.

Not everyone wants to run their cable through the walls. A lot of people just are not going to care if they see a bit of wire coming from a vent or the such. I doubt this article was aimed at anyone who knows what a patch panel even is or where to find a punch tool.

As for the plenum cable, yea its a good idea, but really only a big worry if its a drop celling office building. That pile PVC baby toys over in the corner is going to be a lot worse for you when it goes up in flames.

[tubetube @ Aug 23rd 2006 2:59AM]

The article, and especially the comments couldn't have come at a better time. I am just finishing the deal on buying a house and was awake practically all night thinking about how I would go about wiring the place right from the beginning. Thanks

[vega @ Aug 23rd 2006 3:40AM]

If you want things a little simpler, you can use punch down terminals on some things like wall plates. It's quicker but a little more expensive. Always use a cable tester. They cost $10 and will guaranty that your colors match. Also use as short length as possible on wires going into the crimp.

I would avoid the duct thing. It's against code and can cause issues. One great way to go around the room is by running under wall molding. You can snake under carpet with CAT5 without seeing it most of the time. You can usually find an open chase in most houses. Look for where the AC condenser line goes through the floors. Also where the main drain for the house is. There is usually space between the pipe and sub-floor.

[themacgeek @ Aug 23rd 2006 4:24AM]

To Chris who posted at 9:59PM on Aug 22nd 2006:
You're a dolt! That method for making wires is just fine for direct connections. Hell, they've got miles of wires just like that in Wharton server rooms.

[MWC @ Aug 23rd 2006 6:33AM]

I am currently working in Iraq, and the soldiers and local contractors are using the most basic material and methods to run CAT5 in very much less than ideal conditions, with very little problem. Sure there are better ways to run cables, but if you are renting, you may find these choices to be the way to go.

[Richard @ Aug 23rd 2006 6:46AM]

For the most part I live in rented accommodation and haven't had the luxury of being able to lay cat5 everywhere, however I did find that the current generation of ethernet over power devices are ideal for this situation whereas wireless can be patchy.

IMO it's also better in situations where the house is too large to be properly covered by one access point (like my parents') so I just set 2 access points at different ends of the house and connect them over the power (homeplug if you are interested). I don't know if I can be bothered laying all that cable when I can just go the lazy route.

[John P. @ Aug 23rd 2006 7:54AM]

Mike D,

I did the same thing:

http://www.ururk.com/?p=32

And it worked out pretty well. Ran plenum (solid core) wire throughout the walls, one duct, and the cold air return (two story house + basement).

[m-p{3} @ Aug 23rd 2006 8:23AM]

I must agree doing the cable yourself is a bit more work, but it gives the satisfaction of doing it yourself, and saves money.

However, doing cable like this isn't very practical. Imagine you have to move the computer to somewhere else in the room, and the cable isn't long enough. You will have to redo the entire cable longer. A wall jack would be better, but it's a bit more work, as the color pattern, tools and equipment differ. But at least, you will only have to redo the cable from the wall to the computer, and it is much more permanent.

[url=http://cache.smarthome.com/images/8622mw.jpg]RJ-45 Wall Jack[/url]
[url=https://www.addison-electronique.com/catalog/images//produits/section-n/131016.jpg]Bix tool[/url]

[DAB @ Aug 23rd 2006 8:38AM]

Surprised no one else mentioned it, but just getting the colors to match on both ends usually works, it's not much more work to use the "B" spec. The advantage is that ethernet really only uses 4 of the 8 wires, and the other 4 are grounds that by using the "twist" of twisted pairs, and that gets better signals particularly over longer distances.

Looking at the back of the terminator (clip is on other side) the wires should be OW (Orange White stripe), Orange, GW (Green White), Blue (threw you there), BW (Blue White), Green, BW (Brown White), and Brown.

If you try to use pre-terminated cables you have to drill bigger holes and are likely that the clip will catch on everything it can possibly find.

Good Luck.

[Carl Trimble @ Aug 23rd 2006 8:43AM]

This is by far thee most "ghetto" how to I have ever seen on engadget. Is this a joke?

[dj Jazzy Joz @ Aug 23rd 2006 8:47AM]

We came up with good workaround when we moved to a new house in 2000 and needed to share a DSL connection between my wife's office (2nd floor) and my office (basement). We drilled a hole in the ceiling of her office and ran the cable into the attic, then down the wall into the old clothes chute that ran into the laundry room of the basement, then through the drop ceiling of the basement to my desk. All it took was a drill, a couple long pieces of cable. We lucked out having the laundry chute, because the house had baseboard heat--no vents to run anything through.

Of course, about six months later we went wireless, but we thought we were pretty lucky/clever at the time. Unleash your inner MacGyver and you will find a way.

[Matt @ Aug 23rd 2006 9:18AM]

This article should be commended for what it is trying to do, but for giving POOR ADVICE it needs to be criticized.

1. It has been stated, NON-PLENUM cable INSIDE DUCTWORK is a fire code violation in almost every state I've run cable. Somebody could be seriously hurt by the omission of this information.

2. The pictures shown reveal improperly crimped cable. The otter jacket needs to atleast make it past the strain-relief tooth in the connector or the cable can be VERY easily ripped out of the end. While the wire order in the pictures appears to be correct, there is no mention of using a standard wire order. This can be very important if you plan on running Gig-E (supported by cat-5e or Cat-6). TIA/EIA 568A/B should be used. Pick one and use it throughout your home.

3. Running cable in outside walls can be a major pain, with insulation and firestops. It is much easier to run on inside walls and traverse a room behind the baseboards if needed. Going from basement to attic is a key step (if you have both in your home). Once in the attic you can reach most inside walls, and from the basement you can reach most first-floor rooms.

[Brian Paul Ehni @ Aug 23rd 2006 9:42AM]

Another reason NOT to use zip-style cables ties: they never loosen; they only thighten. For this reason, they are not used by reputable cable installers in networks because they can pinch strands and cause problems. They are also outlawed in aircraft wiring. Coincidence? I think not.

[snorkle256 @ Aug 23rd 2006 10:15AM]

I see a few comments about plenum and using it because it does not release toxic gas. Frankly I do not know that to be ture. The real reason for using plenum cable is because it contains a fireretardant. Since you would be going through plenum (air ducts and circulation vents) from one location to the other, plenum cable is code because it will not give the fire a path to travel.
Check the wiki http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plenum_cable