Intially I struggled to come up with an easy way of doing this project. You know, the typical tossing and turning at night, running up to the apex of hills and screaming "WHY?????" Standard stuff. Even wandering around Hobby Lobby for an hour didn't really spark any ideas. Eventually I did hit upon an ideal object to make an analog stick attachment case out of -- behold!
- A can of Jerky Stuff. This is a type of shredded beef jekry that's been around for a while. Any product with this sort of plastic container will work, but the health hazards may vary. Your call. Anyway, this plastic container is almost exactly the same height as a PSP and an analog stick fits inside perfectly. Plus it's round so it fits the style of the PSP.
Mini USB pros:
- Easier to wire up.
- More solid insertion and strength.
- Larger and thus more difficult to fit in both the PSP internally and the attachment case.
- Must be ordered from an online store unless you have an old digital camera or other device you can remove the plugs from.
- Cheap and can be found at most any Radio Shack. (Even the mall ones that have basically become iPod and cellphone stores.)
- Smaller (length-wise) than a USB jack and thus easier to fit inside the PSP.
- Harder to create a solid insertion (vs USB).
- You'll need to find headers or other pin-based connections to insert into the IC slot. Plugging an IC socket intro another IC socket won't grab well enough. Part numbers for headers are supplied, or you can pull some off an old computer motherboard. They're the kind of pins that you plug your power switch and hard drive LEDs into.
- IC Socket from Radio Shack: 276-1995. These are 8 pin DIP sockets that we'll be slicing in half.
- 4 pin header - Digi-Key: WM17437-ND Mouser: 538-22-10-2041
- Mini USB plug - Digi-Key: H2958-ND Or use an old digital camera cable.
- Mini USB jack - Digi-Key: H2960CT-ND Mouser: 538-56579-0519
Other stuff you'll need:
- Soldering iron and of course, solder.
- Desoldering iron if you're pulling plugs from junk motherboards.
- A Dremel cutting tool. Again, you can probably cut the plastic in other ways, say with sharp X-Acto knives, by burning holes with the soldering iron etc, but a Dremel cutting wheel is the best.
- X-Acto knife.
- Hot glue gun or other such gluing device.
- Super glue (I prefer the liquid kind).
- Goo-Gone glue remover, or similar type product.
- A 1/2-inch long size 6-inch screw.
Step 1 - Prepare the Jerky Stuff can
- Open the can using your fingernail or other such item.
- Eat the Jerky Stuff, or feed it to ravenous squirrels. (As long as you're ok with salt in general, it's not too bad tasting.)
- Soak the empty plastic container pieces in water - this will make their labels mushier than a Nora Ephron film. I threw some rubbing alcohol in with mine for good measure, which they clearly should have tried with Bewitched. Let it soak while you do the next few steps...
OK now let's get the jack installed into the PSP. If you're using the Radio Shack IC you'll need to cut it in half first. Place an X-Acto knife in the center of the bottom and press down firmly, as shown below. You may need to shave off a bit more after the main slice to get a nice straight inside edge, but the materal is easy enough to cut so it shouldn't be too difficult.
- Open your PSP as described in Part 1.
- Using an X-Acto knife, scratch out a "target groove" on the side of your PSP in the upper black portion of the case. This should be above the flange, and as high and wide as the jack you're using. Shown below is the IC socket and target groove for reference.
- Carve out the hole shape you've etched with a Dremel cutting wheel or by making multiple deep cuts with the X-Acto knife and then bending the piece out with needle nose pliers.
- Place the jack inside the hole and see how it fits with the other components, as shown below:
- As you can see, a bit of the D-pad contact rubber has been sliced off to make room for the jack. As long as you don't cut into one of the domes you'll be alright.
- It's best to place the jack in the center of the unit or slightly higher, as the lower portion is fairly well filled with the LED plastic and Wi-Fi switch.
- Next, attach 4 thin wires to your jack. For best results attach them flat against the jack to conserve as much room as possible. As mentioned in Part 1, these 4 wires will be the A, B, C and D connections for the analog stick.
To line up the D-pad plastic to the hole we've made in the top portion of the case, simply lay the pieces together as if you were putting it back together. You can then make reference marks in the D-pad base using the top hole as a guide.
- Remove the single silver screw to allow the D-pad plastic to be lifted up.
- Cut a hole in the D-pad plastic using a Dremel cutting wheel or by making several deep grooves with an X-Acto knife and then bending out the piece.
- The resulting hole should look like the following:
- Place the jack in the top portion hole and see if the lid can go back on the unit. You may have to adjust a few things to get it fitting correctly.
- Once you're confident the jack will fit inside the closed unit, glue it into the final position. For mine I used a bit of Super Glue under the jack and some hot glue behind and beside it to absorb force. Never be ashamed to implement hot glue -- I use it all the time and I've been on TV and stuff.
- Connect the 4 wires from the jack to the analog nub circuit board as described in Part 1. Make sure you bend the wires around the center of the circuit board, as shown, to allow space for components on the other half of the PSP. I wired my unit with "A" on top of the jack, "D" on the bottom.
When viewed from the side, the jack installation should look as seen below. The jack and all wires are low and flush, and not in the way of the D-pad or the center of the analog nub circuit board.
Step 3 - Building the analog attachment case
OK with that internal nonsense taken care of we can build the attachment itself. About time, eh?
- By now the labels on the plastic Jerky Stuff can should be pretty well water-logged. Scrap them off using your fingernail or the edge of a hard piece of plastic, such as a credit card. Stubborn bits of glue can be killed with that Goo-Gone stuff people use when kids crayon up the walls. (It's a yellow liquid in a clear bottle, available where all fine cleaners are sold.)
- Make a groove in the lid of the Jerky Stuff can that matches the edge of the PSP. There's a couple ways of doing this:
- Line up the PSP to the can manually - Set the PSP on the can (or just the lid) and match the edge of the can's circle to the spots on the PSP where the main black case meets the shoulder button / strap locations. You can then carefully slide an X-Acto knife along the PSP to make a corresponding groove in the can.
- Download the PDF pattern using this link.
- Print it with your settings at no scaling, 100% original size. This ensures it prints at actual size and will match the jerky can.
- Lay the pattern over your jerky can and make a cut along the red line.
Step 4 - Installing the analog stick into the case
With the case prepared we can install the analog stick and plug.
- Using the diagram from Part 1 of this project, wire the analog stick to the plug using 4 short wires. Keep them no longer than 1.5-inches so they won't get in the way of the analog stick's tilt.
- Insert the plug into the PSP and place a small bit of (super or hot) glue on the top of it. (The plug, not the PSP, natch.) Then place the lid portion against the PSP as shown earlier. This will attach the plug in the correct position.
- Carefully remove the plug/lid portion from the PSP.
- Inside the lid make sure the wires are bent away as much as possible from the analog stick opening. As with the internal PSP connections, using thin wire can help with this.
- Try plugging the lid/plug back into the PSP and see how well it fits. Make adjustments as needed.
- With the wires moved out of the way and the attachment fitting into the PSP properly, put more hot glue around the plug to secure and finalize it. Behind it (away from the PSP end) on the sides and even a little on top is the best bet.
- Test out the fit of the analog stick in the case by closing the lid over it and tilting the stick around. A quarter-sized hole worked well for me and the Dual Shock analog stick I used, but if your analog stick... well, sticks a bit simply carve the opening a little wider with an X-Acto knife.
- Since the inside of the plastic can slope up a bit in the center you may need to snip off and shorten some of the pins on the right side of the stick. Otherwise the stick may lean a bit to the left.
- Test the analog stick and plug with a PSP game to make sure the connections are correct before proceeding.
- Dump a whole mess of hot glue in the bottom portion of the case where the analog stick will rest.
- Quickly place the analog stick into the hot glue, and put the lid onto the case.
- Rotate the stick if needed to make sure the Up/Down/Left/Right are in the proper place. Most analog sticks have a thin "mold line" on them that can be used for reference, since it's always either at the top and bottom or left and right.
- Hold the stick in place and let the glue dry. Blow on it to speed this up if you feel so inclined.
- Add a bit more hot glue to the base of the analog stick, especially around the 4 large posts/corners. Make sure the plastic top portion can still rotate and not be stopped by any glue you add.
- Coat the inside of the lid rim with super glue and attach the halves together. Don't forget to put the analog topper back on (As I seem to have forgotten to in the photo above) or you'll really want to kick yourself.
- After the halves are attached, drip some hot glue down into the case to line the inside seam. This will shore up the super glue and also add a bit of structure to the case.
- You can make an inside "wall" for the unit (to enclose the wires, hot glue and assorted guts) using the portion of wall you sliced off from the base. (Or spend a whopping 99 cents on another can o' jerky.) However, depending on the type of plug you'd used, this may keep the PSP from attaching fully.
- Cut a small notch in the plastic to match the screw hole. The edge of the can probably won't quite cover the hole.
- Using a scrap piece of the jerky can, cut a small rectangular shape and drill a 1/8th-inch diameter hole near one end. Thread the 1/2-inch long size 6 screw through this.
- Glue the rectangular piece of plastic to the inside of the jerky can as shown above.
- To clip on the attachment with this screw installed, simply insert the screw into the screw well first, then rotate the case down onto the jack. Bam, you're good to go.
Using this how-to guide you can now make a case for the PSP Analog Stick attachment described in part 1 of this project. While a more complex method could have been employed, I felt that by using a standard sized commerically available (and delicious) product I could make it easier for the casual modder. With the basics now covered, feel free to elaborate on the design, add racing pinstripes, pimp your portable, whatever you'd like.
Oh yes, and start enjoying those PSP games again. That's important too. Well, until next time...
Benjamin J Heckendorn, blogging from the Heart of Wisconsin.
- Key specs
- Game format Optical disc, Downloadable
- Screen size 4.3 inches
- Online features Multiplayer, Voice chat, Store, Browser
- Direction control D-pad, Thumb stick (1)
- Camera External (1.3 megapixels)
- Dimensions 71.4 x 169.4 x 18.6 in
- Weight 6.67 oz
- Discontinued 2008-10-15