When using a projector, it is important to space the two IR emitters so that their position relative to the width of the screen is proportionally the same as when using the stock sensor bar with a regularly sized tv screen. In order to get good results with my projector based setup, I had to resort to a diy solution:
I have made two separate IR-emitter boxes, each containing 5 IR leds (the kind you can buy as replacement for a remote control led). Power comes from a AC/DC adapter providing 12V, so there are no batteries to replace and you don't need a cable to the WII itself (which is located far from the screen in my case). Any necessary wiring for power supply can thus be made to fit in unobtrusively with the projection screen setup.
All that is needed are 10 leds, two resistors (lots of info online regarding how to wire up leds and calculate necessary resistance to be added to the circuit), the power adapter, two project boxes and wiring + your choice of DC plugs. The result is very functional.
One tip: in the original sensor bar, the five leds per side also have their specific spacing: three in the middle bunched close together, and one on each side spaced about 5mm away. This leads to a horizontal target that when viewed from a distance (check with a cameraphone, those wil generally also pick up infrared) looks like a wide hotspot tapered off at both ends. In my experience, this setup produces the best results in terms of responsiveness of the whole system.
The Triumph proved to be one of the better looking and performing pre-paid handsets we'd had the pleasure of holding in our sweaty mitts, but we had one major hangup: the name.
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When using a projector, it is important to space the two IR emitters so that their position relative to the width of the screen is proportionally the same as when using the stock sensor bar with a regularly sized tv screen. In order to get good results with my projector based setup, I had to resort to a diy solution:
I have made two separate IR-emitter boxes, each containing 5 IR leds (the kind you can buy as replacement for a remote control led). Power comes from a AC/DC adapter providing 12V, so there are no batteries to replace and you don't need a cable to the WII itself (which is located far from the screen in my case). Any necessary wiring for power supply can thus be made to fit in unobtrusively with the projection screen setup.
All that is needed are 10 leds, two resistors (lots of info online regarding how to wire up leds and calculate necessary resistance to be added to the circuit), the power adapter, two project boxes and wiring + your choice of DC plugs. The result is very functional.
One tip: in the original sensor bar, the five leds per side also have their specific spacing: three in the middle bunched close together, and one on each side spaced about 5mm away. This leads to a horizontal target that when viewed from a distance (check with a cameraphone, those wil generally also pick up infrared) looks like a wide hotspot tapered off at both ends. In my experience, this setup produces the best results in terms of responsiveness of the whole system.